Aspen is 
        an unusual mountain town. Founded on silver mining in the 19th century, 
        it reinvented itself as a posh ski resort and became an intellectual center 
        with the founding of the Aspen Institute, a place where physicists, philosophers 
        and world leaders come together. Sited at the end of a striking valley 
        in Colorado, the town is surrounded with mountains dotted with multi-million-dollar 
        homes inhabited by the rich and famous. For all that, it's a rebelliously 
        casual place. 
        
        Against 
          this milieu, the Aspen Music Festival runs for nine weeks every summer, 
          creating an international mix of famous soloists, professional musicians 
          and some 750 students into various ensembles. David Zinman, conductor 
          of the Zurich Tonhalle has been the music director since 1998. This 
          year's festival started June 19. I arrived this past weekend, just in 
          time to watch the ebullient small-town parade for America's Independence 
          Day July 4 (no bands, unless you count the music school's ad hoc percussion 
          group on the back of a lorry).
        
        The 
          weekend's programs leaned strongly on American music, including music 
          of George Gershwin, Ned Rorem and that quintessential American composer 
          Aaron Copland (who spent several summers in Aspen in the 1960s and 70s). 
          There was also a bit of Britten (a nod to the country from which America 
          won its independence?) and a new concerto for two guitars and violin 
          by the Brazilian composer and guitarist Sergio Assad.
        
        But 
          the program that best reflected Aspen (the town, as opposed to the music 
          festival per se) was a Saturday night event featuring the Taiwan-born 
          American violinist Cio-Lang Lin and the New York Times' world 
          affairs columnist Thomas Friedman, a regular visitor to Aspen whose 
          wife happens to be the daughter of the festival's chair. A fund-raiser 
          for support of international students, the first half featured Lin playing 
          several duos by Bela Bartok with a student from Thailand and the Mendelssohn 
          Trio No. 2 with a young woman pianist from Georgia (the one in the Caucasus) 
          and a cellist from Switzerland. In the second half Friedman, who has 
          been writing extensively about the war in Iraq, spoke for nearly an 
          hour, explaining why he was for the war but fearful that the Bush administration 
          is losing the peace.
        
        That's 
          not a program one is likely to find anywhere else, mixing exemplary 
          music with thoughtful political commentary. The audience filled the 
          2,050-seat Benedict Music Tent to capacity.
        
        There 
          were more only a few vacant seats the next afternoon when Murry Sidlin, 
          a conductor who actually worked extensively with Copland, led the Aspen 
          Festival Orchestra in a satisfyingly jaunty program that included the 
          composer's El Salón México, the guitar and violin 
          concerto by Assad, a 1963 tone poem by Rorem, and capped it off with 
          a slightly messy but rousing performance of Gershwin's An American 
          in Paris.
        
        Not 
          surprisingly, the Copland proved the most completely articulated in 
          performance, which Sidlin introduced by reminding the audience of some 
          of the Mexican folk music quoted in the piece, playing them on an out-of-tune 
          upright piano (that seemed plucked from another Copland ballet, Billy 
          the Kid).
        
        The 
          Latin American influence led nicely into the Assad concerto, a 2002 
          piece that featured violinist Nadja Salerno-Sonnenberg and the duo guitarists 
          Sergio and Odair Assad. Despite a severly reduced instrumentation and 
          Sergio's pre-concert comment that he had reworked the piece to improve 
          the balance between the orchestra and soloists, there were still many 
          moments when the guitars were either inaudible or registered as undifferentiated 
          strumming. When the music did shine through, however, it had the power 
          to charm, especially in the fourth of the five movements. In that, Salerno-Sonnenberg 
          spun out a gorgeous song-like line against intricate guitar patterns 
          in the soulfully melodic cantiga e modinha, based on Brazilian 
          song and dance forms.
        
        Italian 
          forms inspired the first two movements, a tarantella and a canzona. 
          Brazilian forms inspired the next two, a choro and the modinha. The 
          finale weaves all four ideas into a rondo. The guitarists have recorded 
          with Yo-Yo Ma and Gidon Kremer, and recorded on Nonesuch with Salerno-Sonnenberg.
        
        Rorem, 
          who is better known for his art songs, owes much to the maverick American 
          composer of the early 20th century, Charles Ives, in the way Lions 
          (A Dream), juxtaposes traditional harmonies and evocative orchestrations 
          with sudden dissonances and arrhythmic episodes. Premiered in 1965 by 
          the Detroit Symphony, it's a colorful piece that needs more than one 
          hearing (and perhaps a more thoroughly rehearsed performance) to make 
          sense of, but the lasting impression is one of gorgeous music being 
          overtaken by something sinister and evil.
        
        Sidlin 
          launched into An American in Paris at a faster clip than one 
          usually hears, which took away some of the swagger inherent in the best 
          renditions. It kept the orchestra on its toes, however, and resulted 
          in a responsive performance that made up in verve and intensity for 
          moments that edged toward muddy. The big finish got the audience's hearty 
          approval.
        
        On 
          Saturday in the 600-seat Harris Hall, the chamber music program opened 
          with Copland's Sonata for Violin and Piano. Earl Carlyss of the 
          American String Quartet and his wife, pianist Ann Schein, caught the 
          wide-open textures and purity of the music, which is less a showpiece 
          than a meditation on Copland's thoroughly American musical language. 
          It made a nice contrast with Britten's Lachrymae: Reflections on 
          a Song by John Dowland for viola and piano, which followed with 
          much more complex musical language, exploring the possibilities in a 
          mournful 16th-century song. Baritone W. Stephen Smith first sang the 
          original song (and another that Britten quotes briefly in the piece), 
          which helped because Britten delays the appearance of the song in its 
          original form until the very end of the piece.
        
        After 
          intermission, Sidlin led a lovely and moving performance of Copland's 
          Appalachian Spring in the original 13-piece chamber version. 
          I've come to prefer this to more often-heard orchestral version. The 
          power of this music is in the slow and quiet sections, anyway, and the 
          famous "Simple Gifts" Shaker dance loses nothing in the smaller forces 
          of the chamber orchestra.
        
        Most 
          of the music Americans associate with the Fourth of July involves marching 
          bands and big bombastic orchestral utterances, but for me there was 
          something terribly moving about experiencing this deceptively simple, 
          thoroughly American music on the country's big celebratory weekend. 
          A recurring idea in the piece is a chord, built up in a slow arpeggio 
          of different instruments, basically a triad with an added ninth, but 
          when a single violin topped it off with an aching major seventh. Given 
          America's role in what's happening in the world, articulated by Friedman 
          the night before, that chord cast a wonderful balm over the whole weekend.
        
        Harvey Steiman
        Aspen 
          Music Festival
        Note: Harvey 
          Steiman will be writing regularly from the Aspen Music Festival through 
          its conclusion in mid August.