April 29 was a day to mark on 
          my calendar. It was the second of two splendid concert performances 
          at the Théâtre du Châtelet and lucky Parisians could 
          bathe in the lush, bronzed musical rhetoric of Massenet’s masterpiece, 
          Werther. That indefatigable champion of French music, 70 year old conductor 
          Michel Plasson, was conducting his orchestra, the Orchestre National 
          du Capitole de Toulouse. American stars, baritone Thomas Hampson and 
          mezzo Susan Graham, were the amorous but doomed lovers. Their Act I 
          duet had this jaded critic reaching for his Kleenex. 
        I was able to buy a ticket the 
          day of the concert but the house was full. The stars shone brightly 
          in their roles, a formidable supporting cast was also on stage and the 
          energy was high. Hampson, singing a famous tenor role that the composer 
          himself rewrote for a popular contemporary baritone, held nothing back 
          and his moody title character was one of the most masterful and soaring 
          portrayals I have ever heard in that theater. Susan Graham, who was 
          recently in the same theater as Queen Dido in Berlioz’ Les Troyens, 
          again demonstrated that she is without peer in the French romantic mezzo 
          repertory. Well supported by a cast including the gifted baritone Stéphane 
          Degout as Albert and soprano Sandrine Piau as Sophie, it was an evening 
          that will long be remembered by those in the audience. With the microphones 
          and television cameras, it is likely to have been recorded for some 
          future recording or TV broadcast. As well it should be. It was indeed 
          a triumph for all concerned and the ovation and flower tossing at the 
          end was unprecedented. 
        But what is most remarkable about 
          this evening is its rarity. It is seldom that the French romantic repertory 
          gets the spotlight in Paris. A few years ago, in the magazine Opera 
          News, the French coloratura star Natalie Dessay observed that the French 
          really don’t like French music. She was, I believe at the time, frustrated 
          by her failure to interest French opera houses in a performance of Leo 
          Delibes’ Lakmé. I remember being surprised by this offhand remark 
          at the time but subsequent observations would only confirm the truth 
          of the statement. It is hard to find the extraordinarily rich Nineteenth 
          century body of French composition on the opera or concert stages in 
          Paris or around France.
        Everywhere else in Europe, you 
          find native composers being played with unrelenting regularity by their 
          compatriots. The Finns play their Sibelius, the Poles play their Chopin 
          and Szymanowski, the Norwegians play their Grieg and the Russians their 
          Shostakovitch and Tchaikovsky. Even the English play their own composers 
          at every opportunity. You can get some idea of this by noting that there 
          are now two competing, and very fine, recordings of the complete symphonies 
          of Arnold Bax available in UK shops.
        At the Orchestre National de France, 
          France’s top radio orchestra, the grand Kurt Masur conducted, in March, 
          a cycle of the Brahms symphonies and concertos. This was another installment 
          of the cycles he has scheduled since taking the reigns of Music Director 
          and follows the Beethoven and Mendelssohn cycles of his first two years. 
          These concerts are the hottest tickets in town. Maestro Masur, in interview 
          after interview, boasts of his orchestra’s ease and sophistication in 
          the German repertory.
        Ironically, on my way to the opening 
          concert of the Brahms cycle at the Théâtre des Champs-Elysées, 
          on my car radio, the music director of the Orchestre de Paris, Christoph 
          Eschenbach, was being interviewed. He was boasting of the virtues of 
          his orchestra in the German repertory, prior to a recorded performance 
          of a Mahler symphony, even asserting that the orchestra’s founder, the 
          legendary Charles Munch, created the new orchestra in 1967 so that the 
          Beethoven symphonies could be properly played. Next season, not to be 
          outshone by rivals, the Orchestre de Paris will do cycles of Brahms, 
          Beethoven and Mendelssohn in a single season! The third orchestra in 
          town, the Orchestre Philharmonique de Radio France under its conductor 
          Myung-Whun Chung, racing to catch up, is doing a cycle of the Mahler 
          symphonies next season.
        This bizarre competition between 
          two German podium giants to convince the Parisians that their own orchestra 
          is more echte Deutsch (purely German) is most likely reading the French 
          public desires correctly. It is foolish to put an entire nation on the 
          couch but you have to wonder if the French have some sort of inferiority 
          complex about their musical heritage. A review of the recent seasons 
          of the major orchestras and operas in Paris confirm only sparse programming 
          of the French romantic or impressionist repertory. 
        It is, of course, difficult to 
          contest the dominance of the giants of the German and Austrian repertory. 
          Bach, Mozart, Beethoven and the others will always have pride of place 
          in the world’s performance calendars. But why the French give so little 
          space and attention to their own musical masters is a question that 
          baffles outside observers. 
        The bicentenary of Hector Berlioz’ 
          birth was celebrated last season and he is perhaps the most egregious 
          example of how they hold their musical sons at arm’s length. In recent 
          decades, Colin Davis, that tireless exponent of this unique musical 
          genius, consistently programmed Berlioz in his concerts in the UK and 
          America. As a result, his concerts and recordings made Berlioz far more 
          popular and performed abroad than at home in France.
        The enforced exposure to his superb 
          musical palette during this celebration found the surprised French looking 
          at him as a prodigal son and welcoming him home as a hero. Although 
          the Paris Opera turned up its nose at the Berlioz year, the Théâtre 
          du Châtelet had a major production of Les Troyens which was recorded 
          for a DVD release. But the conductor, and likely instigator of this, 
          was another foreign Berlioz booster, John Eliot Gardiner. A single concert 
          performance of Benvenuto Cellini was conducted by American John Nelson 
          at Radio France studios. By contrast, the Metropolitan Opera had productions 
          of both Les Troyens and Benvenuto Cellini on the boards this season. 
          
        Hugues Gall’s reign at the Paris 
          Opera is drawing to a close and he is to be commended his brave effort 
          make a space for French contemporary composers in the regular season. 
          But otherwise, he never strayed from the path of programming only a 
          token number of the safe French repertory chestnuts like Carmen and 
          Manon.
        My taste in a wider view of French 
          opera was whetted some 9000 miles away from the City of Light. My home 
          town opera, the San Diego Opera, then under Tito Capobianco, had confidence 
          in the attractiveness of the entire repertory. I remember an involving 
          Henri VIII of Saint-Saëns, with Sherrill Milnes as the lusty king, 
          and being easily seduced by the urgent music in Chabrier’s Gwendoline. 
          As recently as a few months ago, a season highlight of SDO was Bizet’s 
          Les Pêcheurs de Perles.
        Closer to France, a tireless exponent 
          of French music, Philippe Jourdan, created a widely heralded production 
          of Henri VIII for his friend Montserrat Caballé - but only in 
          Barcelona in 2002. Rumor has it the legendary diva is thinking about 
          a performance of Massenet’s Cleopâtre next season in Madrid. This 
          season saw a centennial production of Le Roi Arthus by Ernest Chausson 
          in Brussels, which has a long history of programming French opera. This 
          coming season, you can hear Paul Dukas’ opera, Ariane et le Barbe-Bleue 
          if you are passing through Zurich at the right time. There is a in-depth 
          festival celebrating the music of Saint-Saëns going on right now 
          in London and Chicago, London and Washington had recent major productions 
          of Samson et Dalila.
        France has, from time to time, 
          wider reportorial choices if you are willing to get on a plane or train. 
          An oasis for the French music has always been the city of Toulouse. 
          Michel Plasson was the city’s musical chief for nearly 40 years and 
          his love of French repertory was tolerated, even welcomed by the audience 
          there. Another source was the small town of Compeigne where Philippe 
          Jourdan is in charge of the “Imperial Theater” and every year revives 
          a small slice of French musical patrimony. Last year a plucky staging 
          of Meyerbeer’s Dinorah was a hit with both audience and critics. But 
          these are voices crying in the wilderness.
        In the program for the new season 
          which just arrived for one of the main stages of Paris, the Théâtre 
          des Champs-Elysées, of the three operas staged, none are French. 
          Of the seventeen operas in concert and oratorios to be performed, none 
          are French. In the concerts of the Orchestre National de France, aside 
          from two contemporary compositions given their French premieres, there 
          is no French music until page 56 of the catalogue. This is a performance 
          of the Symphonie Fantastique by a guest conductor, one Sir Colin Davis. 
          
        It is only in February of 2005 
          that we have a single French evening conducted by Kurt Masur, featuring 
          works by Debussy, Ravel and the Franck Symphony. The twelve programs 
          of the Orchestre Philharmonique de Radio France, with Maestro Chung’s 
          Mahler Cycle, has not a single French work listed. The twelve concerts 
          of the Orchestre Ensemble de Paris has John Nelson playing yet another 
          Beethoven symphony cycle but he did find space for three small French 
          works as fillers. The piano recital programs listed are no less French-free 
          even though a good percentage of the keyboard stars are French.
        The Orchestre de Paris, with its 
          three cycles of Beethoven, Brahms and Mendelssohn elbowing out the competition, 
          managed to find space for four works by French composers with the notable 
          exception of two all-French evenings in January and March of next year 
          by the visiting Michel Plasson. In the 10 year history of that important 
          January gathering of musicians and audiences, the Folle Journee in Nantes, 
          the least successful with the ticket-buying public was the one where 
          director Rene Martin’s program was centered on French composers.
        Token efforts are in the works. 
          Messiaen’s epic Saint François d’Assise is a centerpiece of the 
          coming Paris Opera season which also includes Poulenc‘s Dialogues des 
          Carmélites. The coming season in Lyon (and the following one 
          in Paris) will feature new productions of Chabrier’s Le Roi Malgre Lui. 
          The dream team of conductor Marc Minkowski and director Laurent Pelly 
          are taking on Offenbach’s La Grande-Duchesse de Gérolstein at 
          Châtelet in September, hoping to recreate the success of La Belle 
          Hélène of 2000. But these exceptions only prove the rule. 
          
        Thanks to the leadership of American-born 
          William Christie and those he inspired, French baroque is a dazzling 
          exception. Christie’s surprising, rousing hit, Lully’s Atys, at the 
          Paris Opera in the early 80s, put baroque in the musical mainstream 
          in France and it has stayed there ever since. In May, for example, there 
          were two major new Rameau opera productions. The Lyon Opera had a Minkowski/Pelly 
          staging of Les Boréades while Bill Christie was doing a splashy, 
          energetic production of Les Paladins at the Théâtre du 
          Châtelet in Paris. 
        But this makes the absence of 
          more recent French music on the scene even more difficult to explain. 
          The French value their writers, poets, painters and filmmakers. The 
          French government’s “cultural exception” guarantees that French culture 
          gets a leg up on foreign competition. New compositions are commissioned 
          by the basketful. But the unwarranted, inexplicable distaste for French 
          music on the part of French audiences, a sad secret known in France 
          for many years, should be addressed by the cultural leadership. Should 
          the government insist that its subsidized institutions pay attention 
          to a forgotten and fast-disappearing musical legacy? There are too many 
          treasures gathering dust on the shelves.
        Frank Cadenhead